Mad Mike

tuning at the track

When the engine is being used at a racetrack or anytime you are trying to get the very most from the engine, the air/fuel mixtures should be adjusted to correct for the ever changing air density. First, the baseline “tune-up” for the air/fuel mixtures must be set and correct for the conditions you have tested under, then the next step is fine-tuning for changes in the air density....

Jetting Alcohol Engines

When jetting alcohol engines, start with what you know is rich. You'll hear a miss or misfire in upper RPM range, or you'll feel engine leveling off. At this point, reduce jetting by trial and error until motor is crisp. Jetting by engine temp alone is very dangerous because if you have efficient cooling system, you can burn motor or send it into detonation while water temp shows cold.

Plug Wires

Don't bundle spark plug wires together with tie straps. This can cause misfire because of leaking voltage between wires. On Chevy V-8 engines, when #5 fires , leaking voltage can cause #7 to fire 90 degrees too early resulting in damaged parts.

Warm Up Engine

Always warm up engine before racing to a minimum of 160 degrees oil temp. Cool oil will show high pressure but won't be flowing through bearings. Results are damaged bearings and valve springs.

Identifying Cylinder Misfire on Racing Engines

Especially on engines equipped with headers, a couple of methods are handy to remember. With the engine idling, “dab” the headers with a wet rag, just beyond the header flange. If the moisture doesn't’t disappear immediately, the misfire is found. Also, small holes {about 1/8-inch o.d.} drilled near the header flange allows you to see combustion flame, through the hole, if the cylinder is properly firing . You can also hook a timing light to each individual plug wire {one at a time} to see if firing voltage is present.

Adjusting Valves with Perma-Locks

When adjusting valves with perma-lock adjusters, after reaching desired valve lash, loosen adjuster 1/4 turn, tighten allen set screw, force lock adjuster tight (within reason) to desired lash. This will prevent lash adjuster from coming loose.

Valves with Stud Girdles

When adjusting valves with stud girdles, after tightening stud girdles you must recheck valve lash.

A street/strip car that runs on pump gas may “ping” with to high of igition advance and will require less initial advance or heavier springs to slow down the “curve.” Where as a low compression, low stall speed converter car may respond better with more initial spark advance or lighter springs for a quicker “curve” – but watch it if you begin your mechanical advance curve at or below the idle rpm, the car will be a real pain in the ass to drive and tune.

street/strip

these motors almost always operate over the rpm where total advance is needed so the timing “curve” is not nearly as important as having the correct total spark advance. This is where the 38_ mark is very handy to have. We have had much success with instant advance curves in these engines. This is where we start engines on about 10_ of spark advance and the instant it fires, the timing goes to the total advance – as long as you use high enough octane fuel this gives a nice clean idle and very quick response.

As you can see, there’s a lot you can do with ignition timing, and every engine will require a specific curve and total spark advance, but if you take the time to sort out what’s best for your engine, you will gain performance without spending a lot of money,

Finding Elusive Vacuum Leaks

With the myriad of vacuum lines and hoses found on contemporary vehicles, it’s often difficult to locate pesky vacuum leaks. Also, after servicing or installing induction system parts {manifolds, carburetors, TBI or MPFT systems}, vacuum leaks can impair engine idle quality, throttle response and fuel economy. PMAG mechanics do the following: With the engine idling, squirt small amounts of “quick start” {ether} from an atomized can near any suspected leaks…or even areas where you suspect a leak might be. If the engine changes speed {typically an rpm increase}, you’ve found the leak. Take caution not to spray any of the “quick start” near the engine’s air inlet because any change from applications to this area are not leak-related, and will certainly increaserpm.

Diagnosing a Clogged or Partially Restricted Exhaust

This involves drilling a small hole {typically 1/8-inch o.d. maximum} in the exhaust pipe ahead of the suspected part {catalytic converter or muffler}. Insert a probe connected to a pressure gauge that can read positive pressure {a two-way vacuum gauge works well} into this hole. Bring engine rpm up to a cruise speed {2500-3000 rpm} and note the pressure indicated. Readings on the order of 5 inches are considered acceptable, but if they reach the range of 10-15 inches, chances are good an abnormal restriction exists. When the test is complete, a small pipe plug or self-tapping metal screw will plug the hole, especially when used in conjunction with some form of high temperature epoxy.

Identifying Restricted Radiator Cores

Bring the engine up to operating temperature. With the engine still running, slowly pass your hand around and in close proximity to the radiator core. Unless the surface is excessively hot, actually touching the surface is preferable. Temperature of this surface should be relatively uniform, over the entire radiator core. Any areas that appear noticeably cooler suggest regions where coolant is not circulating, thereby reducing radiator surface temperature. This condition often manifests itself as operating engine temperatures slightly higher, but not necessarily to excess, than normal radiator core temperature.

Diagnosing for Leaking Cylinder Head Gaskets

Aside from unusually high coolant temperature {this condition can be one of gradual increases over time}, bring the engine to operating temperature and check for bubbles in the coolant system…viewed through the open radiator fill neck. Short “blips” of the throttle should increase the intensity and size of any bubbles present. Another check involves running the engine, at operating temperature, for about two minutes at fast idle or cruise rpm. Allow the engine to cool and remove all spark plugs. Starter-crank the engine to observe any coolant displaced out the plug holes.

Tracing Air Flow Around Air Scoops or System Inlets

This check is usually applicable to racing or otherwise high demand driving conditions. Using regular-grade white grease, form small “tufts” of grease around the air entry. The shape of such “tufts” should resemble small Hershey candy “kisses.” Perform the type of driving for which the measurement is intended; e.g., a quarter-mile acceleration, etc. Examine the “tufts” to see how their shape has changed. For example, the grease will tend to relocate in the direction of airflow, while the extent of “smear” created relates to air flow velocity. This same test can also be used to determine the presence {or absence} of air around intended inlet points.

Diagnosing “Noisy” Serpentine Belts

Many times, these belts become embedded with dirt and other residue that finds its way into the grooves of these belts. And because serpentine belts are relatively expensive, the following method of service often works well. Simply remove the belt, reverse it, and scrub it {with a bristle brush} in a solution of water and liquid dish soap. Allow the belt to dry before reinstallation

Racing Go Carts

Racing Go Karts, you will probably agree the coolest sport on wheels which is why you want to know more about it, after reading this article the prospect of finding racing go karts and getting started may seem a bit daunting, but if you want to race karts then you need to be competitive and face all challenges head on.

Find Your Local Go Kart Track

The first thing you should do is go to your local go kart racing tracks and watch the cart races for a few weeks, When you are there pay to go into the pits you will meet a lot of like minded people who are into cart racing and this is the perfect place to find out who has used racing go karts for sale and go karts engines for sale.

If your budget is tight to start off with and you do not have a sponsor then buying a used racing go cart would be your best option. There are several advantages to this, first ask 4 or 5 drivers what they think a good price would be for different used go karts, this will give you a ballpark figure to work on and will probably save you money. Another advantage is buying a used go cart from your local track means the kart is already optimised for the local conditions, this is very useful when you are just starting out as this kind of knowhow can only be gained from long experience of local racing.

Each year there are always used go carts and go kart engines for sale as some of these drivers either move up in class or purchase a new one. Before you purchase a new racing go cart or a used go kart you must have the determination that this is what you really want to do.

You also have to have someone that knows something about mechanics. Dad's or Mom's usually know the rudiments, or of course there is usually a grease monkey in the immediate family who would take an interest. If you are a parent who's kid has been nagging you about this then be prepared to be immersed into the karting world, you will love it and there is no greater feeling of pride than to see your kid get the chequered flag.

Go Cart Sponsors and Helpers

If you cannot find someone with good mechanical skills then i suggest you try and find a sponsor through your local mechanic workshops and caryards. Auto dealers and mechanics are great sponsors and they bring thier mechanical skills with them, 2 birds with 1 stone.

Once you start racing, everyone that races will give you advice and pointers (everyone is an expert) and that is how you learn. Even the people you race against will help you. They are a great bunch of people and you will soon find your self one of the guys, people are always friendly when you share their passion with equal verve.

This is when you will learn the local knowledge which will be the foundation of your future as a successful racer. You will learn which tires to use, tread or slicks, how many teeth on your clutch that you should use, depending on the track conditions and other essential local snippets of knowledge. Always change the oil everytime you go out on the track, even if its for warm up laps. This will make your engine last longer, I have found it doubles the life of your go cart engine.

I would suggest you have two engines and re-build one half way through the season which usually costs about two hundred. The proper set up for the first time go-carter will cost you around two thousand and then the first year you will probably have around five thousand invested by the end of the season as there is always something you will need. After the first year it gets easier as you then have most of what you need. That is why it is also important to try to get sponsers to help out with some of the costs. Each week there are entrance fees, oil, alcohol and many other small costs which do add up.

Buying A Racing Go Cart

You will soon discover that finding the right racing go kart depends highly on the local go-cart track and what it has to offer. Classes differ depending on the track, so if one class is offered at one track, it may be available at another. Classes are usually broken down by the size of the engine, age, and then the combined weight. You should also get in contact with your local club before buying a go cart in order to learn the rules and be certain of what kinds of go karts can be raced on that particular track.

When you are familiar with your local track and its rules, you can begin your go kart search. You can expect to pay around one thousand for a good used racing go-cart and up to eight thousand for the best karts available. In addition, you will also need an approved helmet, a driving suit, and parts and a good tool kit.

Because of the dangerous nature of racing go carts, check your insurance policy to see if it includes racing activities. If not, clubs often offer insurance at the time of the event. Be sure to ask questions so you know exactly what your policy covers.

Some Tips On Buying Used Racing Go Carts

Is there a dealer to give you support in your area?

Is that dealer already helping others win?

Can you get parts for your kart and is it still sold in the USA A kart that isn't sold here is worth far less than one that is.

Does your dealer help you get the chassis setup right?

How expensive are the spare parts? This can make cheap racing go carts very expensive very quickly.

Has the go kart won, placed recently? Last 12 months?

Are there other drivers with the same kart at your club? This can help you with setup or spare parts you may need in an emergency.

What will the resale value be? Some expensive karts are hard to re-sell again. Same goes for unusual brands.

Above all, ask people at your local club who they recommend.

...Remember the most important thing about racing go carts is the fun you get out of it, sure beats kicking a ball around...

www.go-carts-guide.com

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TIPS - How To Go Testing

Tips for using practice and testing to improve your setups

Track testing provides an opportunity to dial in the car to a particular track for speed and consistency. Most events don't offer enough time for adequate evaluation of our chosen setups, so we need to take advantage of every chance we get to go testing.

I recently tested at several racetracks, Late Model race team and recalled some of my previous experience. What I learned was that the basics don't change,

There is a specific order we must follow during testing to get the most out of the experience. Let's look at how we might organize and run a typical test session and discuss methods and procedures we can use for a more productive session. The process is mostly the same for dirt and asphalt, with some minor differences.

All testing and practice involves trying different combinations of setup and chassis geometry that might make the car faster. As we have stated before, we are searching for an unknown by making intelligent choices in reasonable directions. What we don't want to do is start out with a car we don't know very well, . The top race car consultants would never work with a car that didn't have critical information readily available.

The overall goal of testing is to find a setup combination that is initially fast and remains fast for a long time. It should be good on the tires, comfortable for the driver, and should enable the driver to outrun the competition from start to finish.

On asphalt, the final setup is probably the one we will qualify and race with, given small changes between the two. For dirt, the changes required for each segment might be much different. That does not mean we cannot test on a track that is consistent.

Dirt testing involves trying various settings and bolt-on parts to find what makes the car do what we need it to do. Getting the car to turn better will help us throughout an event, and finding methods of adding forward bite can help us get off the corners better for the dry and slick conditions.

A primary goal might be to learn the process of making changes to meet track conditions. There is an order and logic to adapting to changing track surface grip levels. Becoming comfortable with making those changes can be a huge performance gain.

Testing Preparation/Planning

It is most important to be familiar with the car prior to going to the racetrack for practice or testing. This means that the front and rear geometry have already been evaluated, the car is aligned, and a dynamic analysis of the spring combinations has been accomplished to balance the two suspension systems. Also, the shocks have been dyno'd and tested, the springs have been rated, the steering system has been checked for Acke rmann, the car has been weighed, and the motor has been per ran.

The type of racetrack should be taken into consideration if this is the first time the team has been there. If it has a different banking angle from what the team is used to, a different moment center design might be in order. High-banked tracks have little need for traction-enhancing technology, so rear steer characteristics and ride height must be planned if excess chassis travel is an issue. If the track is flatter, methods of creating bite off the corners should be included in the planning.

If the team is unaccustomed to the length of the track, a rear gear in an acceptable range should be calculated or someone on a team that has run on the track should be asked about gear ratio. If testing is taking place on dirt, the correct tires are needed for the anticipated conditions.

In the days before we leave the shop, we must prepare a plan of attack that defines the changes we will make and the areas in which they are made. This plan may be written on paper or mentally noted. It should be discussed with the entire crew so they can have input into the process and know the direction the test will go in order to be prepared in their particular areas of expertise.

Having a prepared plan is very important for getting good results. As the test proceeds, the result of each change (both positive and negative) should be noted. We probably learn more from the negative results than from the ones in which gains are made. That is because we more readily remember losses in lap times and how to avoid the things that the car does not like.

If different combinations of spring rates are to be used, we need to weigh the car with each combination of springs and note the position of the spring adjusters, which may be the coilover rings on the shocks or the jack screws used in the big spring cars. Doing this allows us to quickly make spring changes at the track and ensure that the weight distribution has not changed.

If we intend to compare different layouts of shocks when making individual corner changes, we need to mark the shocks according to where they will be placed on the car and give them set numbers. The tire sets must be marked as well so that we do not mix tires among sets. Using a tire of a different age (meaning date or laps used) from the other three can throw o the setup quite a bit. Many tests have been upset by the use of an odd tire.

Arrival

Once we have arrived at the track and unloaded the car, we need a pitting position for the car that is relatively level. We should have easy access to the tool cart, the trailer, and other track facilities that may be needed. The spots around the tires are marked with duct tape in order to park the car in the same position after each run.

Many teams weigh the car in that location and note the relative weight distribution if the scales cannot be leveled. The weights read will almost always vary from the shop numbers due to the scales being out of level.

It is best to level the scales and weigh the car before testing. Then, after all the testing is done, the car is reweighed to see how the weight distribution might have changed from the various adjustments.

How to Measure Track Performance

Once we hit the track, we need to be able to measure our on-track performance. There are two components of speed: the motor/drivetrain combination that gets us down the straightaways, and the chassis setup combination that gets us through the turns. Since we work on these separately, we need to measure them separately.

A car can be the fastest one in the turns but not up to par down the straights for a number of reasons. If we have lap times that include turn segment times, we can compare our times to that of our competition. Turn segment times tell us all we need to know about chassis setup experimentation.

We should always take turn segment times in addition to total lap times and compare both with other fast cars. Remember, if we can improve the midturn speeds, we can also improve the straightaway speeds. It is generally accepted that speed gained in the turns is carried all the way around the racetrack.

If we use previously run tires, the age of the tires must be taken into consideration when making comparisons to other cars. If we start on stickers and then run 50 laps of testing, we can expect to lose time to the tires. If our lap times stay consistent, then the changes we are making are probably enhancing our performance. Eventually switching to newer tires will show the positive results of our changes.

It is not a good idea to chase a competitor who has newer tires than ours. If we struggle to make adjustments in an attempt to make up the three- or four-tenths difference, we could put our setup out in left field, never to return.

Some teams use unsupervised tests as a chance to "cheat up" the car to go fast. If an opposing team is too fast, we should not try to keep up by making wholesale changes. Once that team returns to regular competition, where the rules must be observed, the times will return to normal.

The First Set of Runs

The driver should initially make several slow lap circuits and then five faster circuit runs to shake down the car. This establishes that the brakes work as expected, the wheels are on tight, the air will stay in the tires, and there are no water or oil leaks. The transmission and rearend lubricants will also be brought up to temperature. Two more five-lap runs must be made following the initial outing in order to get meaningful tire temperatures.

After each of these runs, we record the tire pressures and/or temperatures, tire sizes, engine water and oil temperatures, and the number of laps run in each session. Then, we make hard copy records of the data in addition to digital records (stored in the tire temperature/pressure box or on a computer). It is fine to have digital records, but we all know how easy it is to lose digital information. Doing both is the best way.

Once the driver is confident that the car is sound, longer and faster runs can be done. In the next series of runs, the driver needs to stay out at least 10 laps so that the tire temperatures will be sufficient to show how the tires are working. Unless the car has a serious handling problem, this should not be an issue. The car should be viewed from a high vantage point. We should pay attention to how the car looks, where the driver's hands are positioned, and how far the wheels are turned while in the middle of the turns.

Evaluation Time

The next step involves evaluating the tire temperatures, pressures, and overall handling balance. Quick adjustments are made to the front tire cambers and all four tire pressures if the temperatures dictate doing so. The handling cannot be properly evaluated if these issues are not resolved right away. No chassis adjustments will be made until we have taken care of the tire issues.

Excess steering input at midturn, inability to keep the car low in the turns, and a car that snaps loose off the turns are all indications of a tight setup. The driver should run the turns at a speed lower than normal and note the position of his or her hands. Once the car is up to speed, the driver should again note hand position. If the steering is significantly different, the car is either tight or loose.

We should record driver and crew comments regarding handling and engine performance. If the car is not neutral, we will make changes to improve the handling while working to maintain a balanced setup.

There is a difference between handling balance and dynamic balance. The car is neutral when it is neither tight nor loose. We can easily adjust most cars to make them neutral. This may make the car faster, but it is not our primary goal. The car needs to be neutral in handling, and the front and rear suspension must be in sync. When both ends of the car are working together, we will truly have a balanced car that is fast and consistent.

Mid Turn Performance First

We must always evaluate and correct the midturn performance first. Balancing the car at this steady state point on the track will also help balance it on entry and exit. Steady state is defined as a condition in which the car is neither accelerating nor decelerating. So the dynamic effects of longitudinal weight transfer from braking or motoring off the corner are not affecting our evaluation at this point in the test.

We can interpret the balance of the car by evaluating the tire temperatures. The easiest way to make a car neutral is to adjust the crossweight. Crossweight is the percentage of the total weight of the car that is supported by the right-front (RR) and left-rear (LR) tires as read on the scales. Lowering the RF and LR corners while raising the LF and RR corners reduces crossweight and loosens the car. All four corners must be adjusted to cause a change in crossweight.

After we have made the car neutral in handling, we need to make a couple of hard runs and note the tire temperatures. The dynamics of the front and rear suspensions working with or against each other will show in the tire temperatures. The LF tire will be near the same temperature and working as hard as the LR tire in a balanced setup.

If the LF tire is the coolest tire on the car (by far the most common condition), then changes should be made to the setup to help heat that tire up by making it work harder. With the popular big bar and soft spring (BBSS) setups, the opposite is usually true. The LR tire might be the coolest tire on the car, and we need to make changes to cause the left-side tires to be the same.

Tire wear can tell us a similar story when racing on dirt. Dirt teams rarely take tire temperatures. They feel the tires for temperature, so it must be somewhat important. But tire wear can also tell us how hard a tire is working.

Here are a few changes that help us move toward a more balanced state.

To reduce the tendency for the rear to outroll the front:

1. Increase the RR spring rate or reduce the rear spring split if the RR is softer.

2. Raise the Panhard bar.

3. Soften the RF spring rate (only on lower-banked tracks).

4. Stiffen the LF spring rate.

5. Move the moment center to the left.

To reduce the tendency for the front to outroll the rear (as is often the case when teams try the BBSS setups):

1. Reduce the RR spring rate.

2. Raise the LR spring rate.

3. Lower the rear moment center or Panhard/J-bar.

4. Reduce the size of the front sway bar (2.000-inch diameter might be a bit much-try a 1.750-, 1.500-, or 1.375-inch diameter bar).

5. Stiffen the front spring rates.

The crossweight should be adjusted with each change in order to maintain the neutral handling. The crossweight has to increase in the first examples because the car turns better as the LF tire begins to have more grip and work harder. We need to tighten it using a higher percentage of crossweight.

In the second set of examples, where the front outrolls the rear, the crossweight needs to be reduced as the rear tires develop more grip.

Ackermann Danger

If Ackermann has always been used by the team to help the car turn in conjunction with a tight and unbalanced setup (the LF tire runs cooler than the LR tire), then the Ackermann has to be reduced and/or eliminated as changes are made to load the LF tire. A tire that is not working much (less vertical load on it) gains traction by using Ackermann. If we load that tire, it will really take off in the steered direction and work against the RF tire. The end result will be a severe push as the two front tires try to go in different directions, ultimately giving up their grip on the track.

Finding the dynamic balance for the car is not the end of our goal. Rather, it is the very foundation of a good setup. It is the first and most important step in getting ready to race. Small changes to the setup can be felt by the driver as never before, and the setup can be further fine-tuned for improved entry and exit performance.

Entry Tuning

Entry problems are almost always caused by rear alignment issues or incorrect shock rates (mostly in the RF and LR corners of the car). The rear end must be aligned properly and square to the centerline of the car. Failure to do so results in a long and hard struggle to overcome a poorly aligned rear end ultimately to no avail. No setup change can effectively overcome an alignment problem.

If we decide to tune entry performance with shocks, we will work with compression rates in the RF and rebound rates in the LR. A RF shock that is too stiff on compression might cause a push on entry. If the RF shock is far too soft on compression, it may also develop a push due to sudden and excessive suspension movement. The result is excess camber change that causes the RF tire to lose grip.

Excess LR shock rebound may cause the car to be loose on entry as the weight is transferred to the front while braking. The LR shock should allow the LR tire to move in rebound to help it maintain contact with the racing surface as the car pitches forward and to the right on entry.

Spring split has an effect on entry performance, too. At flatter tracks, a stiffer LF spring over the RF spring helps entry stability in most cases. To the driver, a stiffer RR spring over the LR spring might feel like the rear end is not under the car and may prevent him or her from going into the corner deep enough on the banked tracks. Spring changes also affect the dynamic balance of the car, and we need to re-evaluate the tire temperatures and make changes to the Panhard bar to rebalance the setup after a spring change.

Exit Tuning

Problems associated with corner exit involve either a tight-off or loose-off condition. If we introduce methods to gain bite off the corner, we might end up with a car that does not turn. The changes we make to improve exit performance should not change the midturn balance. Changes to spring rates, spring split, Panhard bar height, and crossweight will affect and probably ruin midturn balance. So, how do we tune exit performance?

The tracks where we usually see exit issues are mostly the flatter tracks with associated lack of grip. The combination of lateral forces that come from turning the car and the torque associated with power application tend to overload the grip capability of the rear tires. So we need to develop ways to increase the amount of grip the rear tires have available on exit off the corners while not affecting the established midturn balance.

We can experiment with various designs of pull bars, pushrods, lift arms, and associated rear steer that happens only on acceleration. The goal is to reduce the shock to the rear tires upon initial application of power and increase the total rear grip level by introducing rear steer (to the left) to the rear geometry. The more the rear tires are steered, the more traction they will have, just as we have learned about the front tires associated with steering input.

There is a limit to how much rear steer we can use before the car becomes too tight on exit. Larger amounts are more tolerable on dirt than on asphalt. A few ten-thousandths of an inch of wheel movement fore and aft can be felt by the driver on asphalt, whereas an inch or more of wheel movement is not unheard of on dirt.

Sticker tires should be saved for the last runs of the day after the car is dialed in. If the setup is good, we can make a qualifying run on fresh tires. After that run, a 25- or 30-lap run is made using the newer tires to see if the lap times stay consistent. A truly balanced setup will provide lap times that fall off less than the competition's as more laps are run on a single set of tires.

Back at the shop, we review our notes and learn from the gains and losses. All of the results are valuable. The more we learn about the effects of changes, the better we become at making quick adjustments during a racing event. The top teams make a point of knowing how each chassis adjustment affects all of the other parameters involved with their setups.

Incorrect tire stagger, bent shocks, and suspension binding are some of the peculiarities that can ruin a test session. If radical setup changes do not seem to affect the expected result, then a mechanical problem must be sought and fixed. Stagger almost always closes; it doesn't open. Given the choice, we should use a slightly larger stagger than what we may need.

Test notes should be kept available for review. Testing should take place as often as we can afford and whenever the track is available. If goals are set, performance will improve and racing will be that much more enjoyable. Let us know how you do by sending an e-mail to MAD MIKE.. Good luck.

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